So personally, I would purchase the Furutech unless cost is an issue. The Furutech FT-2PS runs quite a bit more (~$46 as of this writing, but makes the soldering much easier by separating the pins with plastic, features an internal clamp for strain relief, is made of tough plastic, and looks great. This very different from the wiring of the 6.3mm jack portion, which uses one connector for stereo, the left one with the negative polarity output from the amplifier and right one with the positive polarity (normally that connector should be used for critical listening). Flux can be helpful for this, and I personally fill the cavity with a plastic-like hardening adhesive for longevity. It's a flexible molded plastic with not much room for the wire to be soldered to the internal pins, and the rhodium needs to be heated enough so the solder takes, but not enough for the plug to melt. The Cardas HPSC is reasonably priced ($~16 as of this writing), but not ideal for beginners. Cardas and Furutech, the Cardas HPSC and Furutech FT-2PS. Recommendations: There are only a couple of DIY connectors out there that are compatible with the Sennheiser HD265, HD525, HD535, HD545, HD565, HD565 II, HD580, HD600 and the HD650. . The pins of the XLR connector are arranged in a circular fashion as shown in the figure. All these variants have both male and female versions. The most common XLR is the 3-pin connector, but there are other connector variants whose number of pins ranges from two to seven. The larger pin should be used for ground/negative, and the smaller pin is signal/positive. XLR Pinout The XLR connectors are circular in shape. It's difficult to notice on a quick glance, but one is larger than the other. The Sennheiser HD connector features two pins. The strain-relief system is a little awkward with set-screws and different-sized plastic rings, otherwise relatively easy to use. ViaBlue T6s: If you're looking for audio jewelry, this will scratch your itch. in rare cases you can run into a dud (in my experience). If you order a ton of the right angle versions, be sure to test them before use. Oyaide: A bit overpriced in my opinion, but the long shaft version is one of the only connectors I know of that can fit Ultrasone headphones. If you have the scratch step up to the Amphenol K Series. Neutrik REAN NYS231: Very slightly smaller than the Switchcraft, not as well made in my humble opinion, but low cost and works. Recommendations: There are tons of great options out there from Switchcraft, Canare, Oyaide, ViaBlue, Amphenol and more:Īmphenol K Series: Great value and there is an extended shaft version for use with phone cases.Ĭanare F12: Perfect if you are using thick cable thanks to the large barrel, but a bit heavy and may not fit some devices due to size.įurutech FT-735 (R): I personally avoid this rhodium plated 3.5mm, the ground sleeve does not accept solder even at high temperatures in my experience and I had one where the tip broke off.
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